6 ostrich (the males and black and the females are brown), 3 jackals and several families of warthogs. Warthogs are so adorable. When they see us they jump to their feet. They stand and look at us for a minute before they decide to dramatically dash away. Then they spin around to see if we're still looking. When they run they hold their tails straight up in the air like a British woman holds her pinky up as she sips from her teacup. The difference between their dainty style and their ugly appearance and name is what makes them adorable. What name is uglier than a warthog? A blister snake? A pimple spider? Blisters and pimples don't last as long as warts. Maybe a cancerous lesion insect? Too many syllables. Unlike Pumba on the Lion King, warthogs don't eat insects, they graze on grass. They kneel down on their front legs so they can reach the grass. We saw 4 secretary birds before we reached the river. As we went along the road I thought I saw some kind of unusual animal ahead. As we drew closer I realized it was 2 Kenyan military men in green armed with rifles and standing next to a post on top of which sits a cape buffalo skull. One of the military men got in our vehicle and rode with us to the river. I was told he was there to protect us from the hippos but I suspect they are also there because this is the border with Tanzania. We got out of the van to see the hippos. The military man walked with my companions up the river to see more hippos and crocodiles. I stayed here with Muthoga to observe these hippos. When we first got there the hippos were agitated and they communicated back and forth vq=3349>98:>632>WSNRCG=32376:45:2<9:vq0mrj.jpg">
about the tourists gawking at them. After a while they settled down and I could distinguish between the 3 families in front of me. The family directly in front of me was smaller and very peaceful. The family to the right near the bend in the river was larger and more lively yet still peaceful. The family to the left of me has issues. Every once in a while I would hear a huge squeal and look up to see a hippo desperately trying to escape from the open mouth of the hippo chasing him. Things would calm down for a few minutes and then some hippo would commit some kind of underwater infraction and all hell would break loose again. Hippos submerge in the water all day coming up every few minutes to blow bubbles or take a breath. At sunset they leave the water and walk up to five miles to graze on grass. Before the sun rises they are back in the water again. Hippos kill more humans than any other African animal. If you get in the way between a hippo and it's destination, you are history. Let me tell you about hippo defecation. Trust me, it's funny. Hippos are the second largest mammal. Therefore they defecate copious amounts. When a hippo has to go, it stands part way up in the water so that the tip of it's tail is still submerged. As they go they wag their tails back and forth like a puppy who's master has just come home from work. The tail acts partly like a windshield wiper and party like a KitchenAid Mixmaster. Manure and water spray up in the air in a 8 foot circle and it makes a huge amount of noise and splashing. Muthoga and I laughed out loud to see it happen. He asks me if Minnesota has anything like this. I've seen moose in the water. Once at Lake Itasca I saw deer cooling off in the water on a hot day. But there is nothing in Minnesota that compares to this. We leave our military man at the river and head back in the van. We come upon a cement post marking the border between Kenya and Tanzania. I stand on the Tanzanian
side for a photo. We head back for lunch. After lunch I decide to swim a few laps in the pool. The pool is surrounded by a 7 foot hedge with deep pink (almost violet) azalea shaped flowers. A 30 foot sheffelara plant shades part of the pool. Beautiful yellow fever acacia trees adorn the ground with their elm-like grace. I can hear the hippos making noise as I exercise my back. A few minutes in the sun to dry off and I am very refreshed. We head out for our last official game drive of our trip. We are not disappointed. We see gazelles, spotted hyena, 3 jackals, 2 lionesses, 3 bachelor lions, and then a group of 6 lionesses,3 ostriches, 4 elephant and another family of warthogs. We have a lovely time in spite of the fact that sometimes I shut my eyes and hang onto the handle above my head. Migwe, our driver, wants us to see nature up close. When he spots an animal, he leaves the road and takes us to it. I believe our van has 4 wheel drive. I saw the odometer and it read over 250,000 but I don't know if that is miles or kilometers. Migwe takes us over country that I would not attempt. Tonight we come upon a nearly dry river bed. The bank goes almost straight down and sharply goes right up again. I don't worry about getting stuck. I figure Migwe can call someone on his cell phone or 2 way radio to pull us out. I worry about tipping over. As we get to the bottom of this V shaped gully, I look out my side window and see we are at the edge of a sharp cut away. I can't bear to watch as Migwe guns the engine and we fishtail our way up the bank. He laughs at our distress but I have to hand it to him - we never got stuck. I can see there is a camaraderie among drivers. When they meet in reserves they stop and talk for a while. They use 2 way radios to alert each other of wildlife. I heard too many tourists know the Swahili word for lion is simba so they use a code word for lion in case the lion walks away and the tourist is disappointed. Migwe keeps playing this CD of popular African songs. I buy a copy of the CD at the store of our lodge. All four of us end up buying a copy of Migwe's music. We are served another 5 course supper about 7:30. While I wait for the others a man playing guitar asks me if I know of Kenny Rogers. He has to say it a couple times before I understand. Yes, I do know of Kenny Rogers. The guitar player tells me he will sing me a Kenny Rogers song. He starts out singing, "Almost heaven, West Virginia." I am pretty sure this is a John Denver song but the man is so proud that I don't want to correct him. I can't take 5 courses tonight and ask for only the soup and salad. It's seems criminal to take only a few bites of a large plate when so many people here are hungry. Tomorrow we will head back to Nairobi. The ODM (opposition group - Orange Democratic Movement) is planning another peaceful rally. The president will now allow any rallies, peaceful or not. After dinner we go to the television room to watch the 9 o'clock BBC news in English. Tonight the news is delayed. Parliament elected a speaker of the house and he is part of the ODM. Speeches are being made. When Parliament likes what is said, they stamp their feet instead of clapping. They stamp so hard they shake the camera. This reminds me of orchestras I have seen showing their appreciation. I listen to Parliament for 45 minutes. It is interesting to be in a room full of Kenyan men and listen to them laugh, snicker and comment on what is being said. Today was another great day.
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